One of my favourite segments when coaching would have to be the block passing module. All the rider’s eyes will light up in anticipation of what’s to come.

Some riders will go into their shell a bit in fear of conflict, while other riders will be keen as mustard – ready to not only execute some block passes, but also receive some.

In a sport where calculated aggression is a way of life, the block pass is a ‘must have’ in your acquired list of skills.

Block Pass/Take out!
One of the most common questions I get asked about block passing is what is the difference between a ‘take out’ and a ‘block pass’? Well unfortunately it’s a bit of a grey area. Some people say, including myself, that if there is contact between both bikes or both riders and it is done on purpose that it constitutes a take out. Whether the rider went down or not, the intent was still there. Other people say that if the rider on the outside goes down that it is a take out. The only argument I have with that judgement is that quite often the rider on the outside will go down purely because they didn’t deal with the situation correctly. In that case it is not the fault of the rider making the pass. Many times I have seen a rider be singled out by an official, or be on the receiving end of an angry competitor for making another rider crash, when clearly it wasn’t their fault. As I said earlier this is definitely an area of interpretation but there are some general guidelines that you can follow to help make sure that your passes stay in the block pass category and not in the take out category.

Why block?
There is one main reason for block passing and unfortunately one main downfall. Let’s start with the bad. The only downfall to block passing is, for example, if you are in third place in a race and battling with the second place rider, deciding to execute a perfect block pass on him, then the race leader will pull away further than if you perform a normal pass without the block. Also, the rider in fourth if he is close enough will have the opportunity to either catch up to you or even maybe put a block on you while you have the second placed rider parked up in the corner. On a positive note, the block pass is mainly used to give the rider making the pass a bit of breathing space when exiting the corner. By the time the other rider gets blocked and regains his momentum exiting the corner it will normally give you a few metres of room so you don’t have to panic going into the next corner, wondering if the favour is about to be returned to you. Block passes are a big favourite in the small confines of indoor supercross where the straights are so short, making it much easier for a rider to pay back another rider in the following corner.

Setting up
To set up a block pass you need to plan well in advance, setting the pass up possibly in the previous section or even the previous lap. In fact, failing to plan your block pass is generally the biggest cause of accidental take out moves. The key to all of this is getting to the inside of the rider and at least be level with them as you enter the corner together. From this point you can push the rider high in the berm, preventing them from either going around the outside of you, or cutting back underneath. If you don’t plan your move early then you can find yourself entering the corner to the inside of the other rider but still be half a bike length behind. This gives you a fifty fifty chance of executing a block pass or take out move as the rider on the outside will most likely not see you coming. The other main factor to consider when setting up your block pass is to make sure that you are reasonably close to the other rider and not four or five metres to the side. When you are that far apart coming into the corner you will normally come together with a bang, rather than coming in nice and close together which makes it much easier to block the other rider politely.

Excuse me
The deciding factor in any block pass is the mid-part of the corner where the rider will pause. At this crucial point in the corner you can tell most times what is about to happen. If you have performed the block correctly then you will feel no bike contact and exit the corner all by yourself with a bit of a gap. If the rider on the outside goes down or is punted over the berm, then chances are you were a bit on the rude side. On the other hand, if the rider continues to ride around a small gap that you left high in the berm, or cuts back underneath re-passing you, then you haven’t pushed the issue enough and were too polite.

How do I gauge myself?
There are two main areas that you need to gauge your position. Firstly your entry into the corner and secondly your point of block pass.

Entry:
You should try to be no more than one to two metres to the side of the other rider when entering the corner. Ideally, when both riders enter the corner the rider on the inside should be level with the outside rider. If this isn’t possible then at least have your front wheel level with the outside rider’s footpeg. Any further back than this and the block pass should be aborted.

Point of block pass:
At the point of block pass where the inside rider will pause momentarily, the inside rider’s footpeg should be reasonably close to the outside rider’s front wheel (not in the front wheel). This prevents the outside rider from cutting back underneath. Also, at the point of block pass the rider on the inside should run their front wheel up high enough in the berm to prevent the other rider from continuing around the outside line.

Well now you are all ready to get out there and practice some bock passes on your mates or teammates. I have to say that I definitely do not condone take out moves and when done correctly, block passes are a safe, specialised trick to have up your sleeve. Start slow and work up to it. Good luck on the weekend!